Olfactive Glossary & Standards.
The Language of Scent Creation
Perfumery is a delicate overlap of creative mastery and rigid analytical chemistry. This quick reference index summarizes the vital terminology, certifications, and chemical structures referenced across the Proessences inventory.
Accord
AA term used to describe a blend of aromatic chemicals that blend into a particular note E.G., floral, green, rose and used in a formula as an ingredient.
Agarwood
AAlso known as Oud, this has been used as a perfumery ingredient for thousands of years. Today, it is one of the most expensive fragrance materials. In its crude form it is a resin that forms on the bark of a tree that has been infected by a virus. The tree is found in the far east and Assam.
Aldehyde
AThese are organic compounds found in various natural elements – though modern perfumer uses synthetic versions.
Allergen Declaration
AThis is a document provided by a fragrance manufacturer which declares all allergens present in the fragrance and at what level they are present in the fragrance at.
Allergens
AAllergens are fragrance chemicals that are found in most essential oils and in single chemicals that can cause an allergic reaction.
Amber
AAssociated with warmth and sensuality. It is often accompanied with exotic flowers and spices.
Ambergris
AAmbergris is also known as whale vomit and is more expensive than oud. It has a unique odour and historically this material was used as a fixative however modern perfumery now uses a synthetic version.
Aromatic
AThis refers to herbal, grassy scents. They contain combinations of sage, rosemary, cumin, lavender and other plants.
Balsamic
BThis refers to sweet, rich and thick notes.
Base Notes
BThe notes give depth to the aroma and create a lasting impression.
CAS Numbers
CThis stands for Chemical Abstracts Service which is a unique identifying number for chemicals and essential oils.
Chypre
CThis phrase refers to the fragrance family characterised by an accord composed of citrus top notes, a middle centered on cistus labdanum, and a mossy-animalic set of basenotes derived from oakmoss.
Citrus
CThis description is used for fragrances that are in the character of Lemon, Lime, Grapefruit, Mandarin and Orange.
Classic Fragrance
CA fragrance that has been popular for many years. As an example, Chanel Number 5 which was first launched in the early 1920’s.
Eau de Cologne
EThis type of fragrance is the earliest type of commercial fragrance which were based on essential oils blended with alcohol.
Essential Oils
EOils which are extracted from plants, wood, leaves, roots, grasses and fruit. The extraction can be by steam, cold-pressed or solvent.
Floral
FFragrances predominantly reminiscent of flowers such as Rose, Honeysuckle and Jasmin.
Fougere
FFougere means 'fern-like' in French and describes one of the main fragrance families.
Fragrance Families
FA fragrance family is a classification system that the industry uses to place scents into olfactory groups.
Fragrance Pyramid
FAlso known as a fragrance triangle, this is a simple way of describing a fragrance by highlighting the notes throughout the aroma.
Gourmand
GOdours similar to sweet honey and chocolate which are good enough to eat. One of the most successful gourmand fragrances was Angel by Mugler.
Greens
GFragrances reminiscent of freshly cut grass and snapped leaves in spring.
Heady
HA Fragrance which has a hypnotic effect.
IFRA Conformity Certificate
IIFRA stands for the International Fragrance Association. Issued by the fragrance manufacturer, this certificate advises levels you can safely use the fragrance up to in a number of different product categories.
INCI Names
IThe Latin names for chemicals and essential oils.
International Fragrance Association
IIFRA is the global representative body for the fragrance industry. It seeks to represent the collective interest of the industry and promote the safe use of fragrances.
Layering
LWhen 2-4 fragrances blend together to create a unique fragrance.
Leather
LThe scent varies from floral to woody. They are used to mask other unpleasant smells.
Middle Notes
MThis is the heart of the aroma and tends to form the foundation of the fragrance.
Musk
MOriginally the musky note was provided by glandular secretions from animals such as the musk deer. Today there are a range of powerful synthetic musks available.
Natural Fragrance
NA fragrance created using only essential oils.
Niche Fragrance
NA Fragrance that is exclusive and unique. It often has its own story behind it and stands out from all the classic brands.
Olfactory
OThe term which refers to the sense of smell or the act or process of smelling.
Ozonic
OOzonic fragrances replicate the smells associated with the sea and the sea air.
Pot Pourri
PHistorically the term was used to describe a mixture of dried, natural plant materials. For example, lavender heads, orange peel and flower petals.
Powdery
PScent that come from notes from powdery elements such as iris, musk and vanilla.
Research Institute for Fragrance Materials
RRIFM uses deep and specialist expertise to continually review ingredients, based on potential health or environmental effects as well as real-world insights on people’s use of fragranced products.
Spicy
SFragrances which have characters that include clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger and pepper.
Synthetic Fragrance
SFragrances created in a lab, often from petroleum and natural gas.
Top Note
TThe first impression of the aroma. This tends to be made up of the more volatile chemicals in the formulation.
Trickle Down
TA word used to describe a fine fragrance that has influenced similar fragrances in other product categories. An example would be Davidoff Cool Water which influenced similar variations in household, air care and automobile products.
White Floral
WThis is a subgroup within the floral group which have the most narcotic scent. It’s lush, opulent and intoxicating. It creates intense femininity in fragrances.
Woody
WThis refers to earthy, sensual scents which tend to be in the base notes of many men’s fragrances.
Looking for exact safety dossiers, IFRA, or allergen values?
We supply comprehensive material chemical sheets and certificate documentations (IFRA certificate of conformity, Allergens declaration, and SDS files) on a per-batch basis for bulk orders.
